As we left our home of a week to visit one of Puerto Rico’s hidden treasures, El Cuevo del Indio, we laughed and reflected on previous days and slightly lamented on the reality that our stay in Isabella was coming to an end. 

In time, we pulled into a parking lot filled with palm trees whose roots were whitewashed. Painted on those roots were some of the familiar Taino petroglyphs we had seen in books, around the town, on T-shirts, bus stops and of course at the Cemi museum. We spoke to our would-be guide (Peter) as he quickly explained what we would see. 

While I knew that we would see real petroglyphs, nothing could prepare me for the shear rush of emotions I would have once we were there.  We climbed jagged rocks that led to cliffs displaying amazing sceneries and later learned many of them were used in well-known movies of both the past and present (Pirates of the Carribbean, The Goonies, etc.). It is impossible to explain the expanse of natural beauty of this important Taino site. After standing in awe of nature’s beauty and coming off the high of our recent engagement in a Taino ceremony celebrating life and the riches of the earth, it was hard not to feel completely connected in a different way.

Once we neared the entrance of the cave, some of us (me being the primary one) realized that to be a part of this experience, to truly see the wonder of this sight, we would have to let go of some fears and have faith that everything would be fine. While I contemplated sending my camera with the braver members, I decided to buck-up and make my way down the narrow path that led to a ladder extending 40 ft into the belly of the cave. With much encouragement from Team Taino and our guide, everyone climbed down safely and entered what can only be described as boundless magnificence. Petroglyphs were everywhere! 

 We listened to Peter’s vivid stories of Taino living and struggles to escape their enemies. I began to think back to the Taino ceremony when one of the members approached me and questioned if I knew I was a Taina. My heart raced a little as I imagined myself in the stories and as I looked closer, I realized how much Peter resembled my cousin in Jamaica and many of my other family members (descendants from Cuba and Jamaica). Almost instantly, my mind started making connections and I wondered about how similar Jamaica and Puerto Rico are in its natural resources, food, plants, roads and businesses.  I wondered about the indigenous Taino of the islands and their migration around the Caribbean. I even wondered if Peter and I might be related in some way and whether I really do have connections to the Taino who lived and navigated this and many other caves.

The sound of rushing water engulfed the cave and was joined by the sound of flying bats and bees collecting at their hives. Vibrant pinks were met with the cool blues of ocean water as it ritually moved in and out and collected on the cave’s floor. 

Stepping over rocks and perfecting our balancing skills was well worth it as we soon learned that the Taino were small people whose size (about 80 lbs.) helped them navigate the caves with great skill and agility.   Mainly vegetarian, the Taino could live comfortably in the cave for three years due to their familiarity with natural food and water sources, survival skills with which their enemies were unfamiliar.

Present day Tainos of this line continue to come and visit this, their sacred land, to remind them of their ancestors. While the outside world continues to want to photograph them, great measures are taken to preserve their privacy and right to worship and meditate in their cave that has been shared with us. While this is now a cave that is clearly sacred ground, people have defaced some areas with paint and a filmmaker thought it okay to carve into the rock to make a scene of his movie look more realistic. 

Peter then spoke of how the owners have been offered money for a casino to be built and this sacred place to become an attraction. On our ride home we wondered what it would look like if that happened. I questioned whether people would still be able to see the profile of the Indian in the side of the mountain or the massive turtle that seemed to be climbing a rock. Would they be able to feel the ocean breeze, smell the salt in the air or experience the sporadic showers of rain coming down from the heavens as we did that day? I hoped that they would not desecrate the land because after being in that place and experiencing the cave through the eyes of our passionate and knowledgeable guide, I will never be the same.